A Mammoth Launch - The HYT Skull Vida

Hot off the presses today is the launch of HYT's Skull Vida, a limited edition of just 5 pieces. The 'limited edition' in this case could also be referred to as 5 unique pieces, as the material reflects its own unique properties, and is a very unusual material to watchmaking.

The skull shaped sculpted dial is crafted from Siberian mammoth ivory thousands of years old. In fact, most of the mammoths that are being uncovered in the region are 15,000-30,000 years old and have been remarkably well preserved, having been frozen in place until now. Before any work can be done on the ivory, it has to go through a stabilization process so that it can adjust to the atmosphere. Specially trained artisans worked with the ivory, which given its age, had to be very carefully handled.

"Our first Skull collections fell within the tradition of Memento Mori, reflecting in particular the Mexican culture of Dia de los Muertos, where death is celebrated in the same way as life, in a celebratory communion of the passing of time," recalls Grégory Dourde, CEO of HYT. "However, we felt that we could go even further still by literally combining life and the unique flow of time with our fluid technology and a dial made from an authentic material, a true living sculpture. The Skull Vida was born from this all-encompassing, holistic vision." 

The Skull Vida comes in a 51 mm black DLC titanium case which highlights the creaminess of the ivory. It is powered by HYT's exclusive mechanical hand-wound movement which provides a 65-hour power reserve. The seconds are displayed in its left eye, the power reserve in its right. As usual, the entire artwork is surrounded by an HYT capillary specially folded into the skull shape, in which the separation point of two immiscible liquids indicates the hours. The strap, is a beige floral-embroidered fabric with a black DLC titanium deployant buckle.

The Nixie Machine II Debuts at M.A.D.Gallery

If you have ever dreamed of time traveling, the Nixie Machine II by Berlin-based artist Frank Buchwald might be just the way to get there! The clock, created in collaboration with passionate engineer Dalibor Farny, certainly gives you a Victorian-era/Steampunk vibe, and Buchwald’s inspiration definitely reflects this element in his work. “Pencil, glue and cardboard...railway stations, steam engines...childhood memories. Creativity and enthusiasm form the golden thread that has weaved through my life. They’re my fuel.” he explains.

At the heart of the clock, and indeed the display of time, are Nixie tubes which were introduced in the 1950s. Nixie tubes – also known as cold cathode displays – became a popular way of presenting numerals using glow discharge. Each glass tube is filled with a low-pressure neon-based gas and includes a wire-mesh anode and layered cathodes shaped like numerals; a separate cathode is needed for every numeral 0 to 9. A distinctive orange glow discharge surrounds each cathode when power is applied. Assembled in multi-digit arrays by connecting electronic circuitry to several tubes, Nixie tubes were often used for computers, clocks, and frequency counters, though these were eventually supplanted by more practicable, less costly – though arguably less charming – displays such as light-emitting diodes (LEDs).

Each and every detail has been manually handcrafted, from the design, construction, and detailed finishes of the clock to the six Nixie tubes produced by Dalibor Farny. Farny put in numerous years of research and experimentation to build a modern Nixie tube and handcrafts them in a studio that looks like a cross between a laboratory and workshop located inside an old castle near Topolna in the Czech Republic.

The heart of the clock in itself is completely innovative and modern, despite its overall vintage feel and keeps time automatically via its powerful, Wi-Fi-enabled electronics dock. therefore, it is completely automatic. All settings and special features – including scroll effects, day/night modes, digit light dimming, time zone settings and more – can be intuitively programmed online. The clock can also operate offline, regulated by a knob on the back. 

12 unique pieces are available exclusively from the M.A.D.Galleries in Geneva, Dubai, and Taipei. 

Show your love with Christophe Claret's Marguerite

Christophe Claret offers a spectacular gift of love with Marguerite. As part of their first collection of watches especially created for women, Margot, the new Marguerite model is clothed in over 600 diamonds. The red gold case measures a perfect 42.5mm, and the bezel and lugs are set with over 380 diamonds of varying sizes alone.

The daisy at the center of the dial  has overlapping petals and is accented by another 220 diamonds. Two fluttering butterflies, highlighted with orange Super-LumiNova appear to float around the daisy indicating the time. The butterflies are slightly different in color, the 'female' version is darker and indicates the hours, while the 'male' version is lighter and points to the minutes. At the heart of the flower is a glistening ruby all hovering over a white mother-of-pearl dial.

The magic doesn't stop there. Hidden beneath the numbers on the dial is a message that reveals itself when the pusher at 2 o'clock is pressed. The numbers disappear to reveal the phrase: “Il m’aime passionnément” (He loves me passionately). For even more personalization, the message can be customized to be whatever is desired, within the  given number of characters allowed.

The caseback isn't left out either and provides an opportunity to admire the movement’s oscillating weight sculpted like a daisy and set with eight rubies. The daisy shape also allows the owner to indulge in a game of 'He loves me, he loves me not', by holding the watch in a horizontal position, and with one or two shakes, the weight will move for a few seconds and then stop to reveal whether the answer is yes or no!

Available in red, blue and green, in a white or red gold case, each color is a limited edition of 30 pieces. 

Announcing the MB&F Legacy Machine N°1 (LM1) Final Edition

After six years of the Legacy Machine N°1, MB&F have launched the last in the series. To honor this legacy (pun intended), this is the first time the watch has been available in a stainless steel case, a very rare occurrence from MB&F. The dial of the 18 piece limited edition is in a rich dark chocolate brown, and includes the new balance bridge that was featured in the LM101 and LM Perpetual.

The 44mm case comes with the usual high domed sapphire crystal which floats over the movement and bridges. The three-dimensional horological movement was developed exclusively for MB&F by Chronode, with bridge design and finishing specified by Kari Voutilainen. Power reserve is 45 hours.

Legacy Machine No.1 is available in 18k red gold, 18k white gold, a limited edition of 33 pieces in platinum, a limited edition of 13 pieces for the M.A.D.Gallery Dubai in titanium and the final edition in stainless steel. The LM1 was also the base for two Performance Art editions with artists Xia Hang and Alain Silberstein.

After a total of approx. 435 Legacy Machine N°1's it's bittersweet, but these will be the last new pieces in the series. 

I'm holding my breath for what comes next!

Pre-Basel Angelus Releases the U22

The Angelus U22, much like the U21, is based on last years release of the U20 Ultra Skeleton Tourbillon. This version has carbon fiber and titanium case, giving it a very contemporary and sporty look, and the materials also contribute to reducing the weight even further, to a mere 54 g.

Since the movement for the U20/U21/U22 was designed from the beginning to be minimalist and skeletonized, it is devoid of any superfluous materials. The openness of the dial, with no bezel, allows the wearing to enjoy the three dimensional movement from every angle. 

A flying tourbillon sits at 6 o'clock, and takes advantage of all the codes of haute horlogerie. 

Available in a limited edition of 18 pieces.  

Pre-Basel - Angelus Releases the U21

In 2016 Angelus released three highly technical watches that joined the U10 Tourbillon Lumiere in the relaunch of the brand. The U20 was released featuring a stunning truly minimalist movement that seemed to float between the crystals. Very much a cutting edge work of art.

For 2017, two new versions of the U20 have been released. The U21 features a carbon fiber main plate, and is set into a 42mm carbon fiber and red gold case. There is no bezel on this watch, in order to allow the wearer to gaze at the movement from the side of the case, as well as above. This is by no means an easy feat to accomplish.  

On the dial, the skeletonized bridges are solid gold and the flying tourbillon sits proudly at 6 o'clock. 

Finished to the highest standard of haute horlogerie, the Angelus U22 is available in a limited edition of 18 pieces. 

Green with Envy - The Kerbedanz Tree of Life

Not many people are familiar with a small but exceptionally talented watch brand called Kerbedanz. They create small batch high end watches, which are filled with references to cultural and ethnic values that are represented in the finishing on the components of the mechanical movements, as well as on the surfaces and reliefs of the dials. 

The Tree of Life - a worldwide symbol of immortality - is no exception and depicts an ancient, flowering tree planted in a mossy undergrowth.The 18K yellow gold case and lugs are literally covered with emeralds, 540 in total. The stunning dial features enamel in the background which reflects a myriad of green, and a yellow gold tree with diamond accents which was designed, manufactured and hand decorated by Kerbedanz.

Only 41 pieces will be made, and each one is set on a green alligator strap. 

Let's see what they have in store for us at Baselworld 2017.

Unique Piece from Angelus Watches

In 2015 Angelus was revived and released it's first watch. Not wanting to copy anything that was produced in the early days of the brand, they took inspiration from their multi dial alarm clocks and made a watch that just couldn't have been made when the brand originally existed - the Angelus U10 Tourbillon Lumiere. The spectacular piece had two massive openings one for the retro 70's-square-tv-style dial, and the other to highlight the massive floating tourbillon.

Now in 2017, a special unique piece has been released with an unexpected addition, paying tribute to the old tradition of Mexican Calaveras, used mainly to celebrate . The colorful skull has been added to the dial side, while Día de los Muertos. 

Priced at $118,500, this is the first unique piece from the Angelus U10 art collection.

Show A Little Timely Love for Valentine's Day

Valentine's Day will soon be here and the gift dilemma is in full swing. Here are a few beautiful options for the gift of time for her.

 

Harry Winston Premier Precious Love - Limited Edition of 14 Pieces

If you want to show how much you love your partner everyday, this is a stunning piece to make that happen. The dial is exquisite with ten heart-shaped rubies and 47 brilliant-cut diamonds set over a white mother of pearl latticework frame, over a pink mother of pearl background. The minute and hour hands are set into the center of a flower made of overlapping hearts, and below is another heart, outlined with six of the ten heart-shaped rubies.

The white gold case measures 36mm and is also set with 57 brilliant-cut diamonds, and is topped off with an pink satin or an alligator leather strap with white gold buckle, and adorned with 17 brilliant-cut diamonds. 

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Astorite - Limited Edition of 28 Pieces

If your valentine prefers a more minimalist dial, then this may be the one. The 35mm 18kt red gold case is set with 232 diamonds, and the dial is taken from a pale pink rare gem called Astorite. The minute and hour hands are set into a white mother of pearl sub dial at 12 o'clock. 

The watch is available on a hand-made grey satin strap with an 18kt red gold buckle.

de Grisogono New Retro

If rubies are the winner, then this is the watch for you. Simply stunning in color from top to bottom, the pink gold case is set with 70 baguette cut rubies, and the dial has an additional 60. Continuing the glorious color combination, the ruby galuchat strap also has a pink gold folding clasp set with another 112 rubies. The crown set at 12 o'clock adds to the symmetry of the design. 

Audemars Piguet Diamond Outrage

This white gold watch comes with outrageous spikes covered in either white diamonds or blue sapphires, equaling about 65 carats worth of stones. To tell the time you open one of the spikes to reveal the dial. It might contain a quartz movement, but at this point, who cares! It's edgier than most watches out there, but all I can say is, it works for me!

Urwerk's UR-106 Flower Power Limited Edition of 11 Pieces

Continuing the theme of something a  little different, lets take a look at the Urwerk UR-106 Flower Power. There is no doubting that this is an Urwerk, however the recognizable shape has been transformed into a dazzling diamond encrusted watch instead of the snake skin pattern we usually see. The single block steel case is set with 239 Top Wesselton quality diamonds, plus the dial's central flower in white gold set with 30 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.184 ct), and a further 3 small flowers in white gold set with 6 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.522 ct).  

WT'MB&'F?

Holy Horological Machines Batman!! I was expecting something amazing when MB&F teased us with the movement for their HM7, but this one just blew me away. 

Looking like a cross between a spaceship and a submersible, the design was actually inspired by jellyfish. Eric Giroud is the designer of the striking piece, and along with a team of 49 people, the first water resistant Horological Machine was conceived.  

Not to be content with just the shape of the watch, with a unidirectional rotating bezel that seems to orbit around the edge of a see through spaceship, the watch also contains a central flying tourbillon and a vertical movement between its domed sapphire top and bottom. Super lume comes courtesy of Black Badger creator James Thompson.

The MB&F HM7 Aquapod comes in two variations, 33 pieces in titanium, and 66 in red gold, both are delivered on rubber straps. 

Another one for the shopping list!

HYT Releases the Skull Pocket Watch for SIHH 2017

HYT isn't your 'normal' watch brand, they fall into the category of a niche brand that thinks out of the box. For those who aren't familiar with the way the watch works, there is a capillary that contains two liquids, one of which has color. This liquid moves along the capillary to indicate the time. Not an easy feat to produce (they have developed 7 patents for it), but HYT has succeeded. 

Now HYT unveils its first ever pocket watch, the Skull Pocket to add its Skull Collection. Set in a new case, the first ever Skull and mechanical light source combination, exclusive finishes, and just 8 pieces available: the Skull Pocket marks a turning point in the development of HYT's fluid-based watchmaking technology.

Favorite watches of 2016 - Fiona Kruger Petit Skull.

I have been a big fan of Fiona Kruger and her work since I first saw her pieces in 2014. Since then she has grown in strength and is really making an impact on the world of watches, throwing all the usual conventions on their heads. A young Scottish female watch designer, whoever heard of such a thing! The PETIT SKULL Series launched this year is produced as a limited edition of 18 pieces. The multilayered guilloché layers are just killing me with their gorgeousness!